Tuesday, September 15, 2015

Change of Pace

Caution: Not related to MLP or Minecraft (you have been forewarned)

Lately, my creative outlet has been crocheting. I've done it for about 10 years, and I suppose you could call me decent at it. 

Also, as of late, I've been adoring the Geek & Sundry Twitch Channel and one of its shows, Critical Role, where a group of voice actors play Dungeons and Dragons. 

It's immensely popular and is adored by many, including myself. And with popularity, comes a crap ton of fan art. Myself included. I've made 3 characters from the campaign thus far. The half-elf druid, Keyleth. The ranger Vex'ahlia's bear, Trinket (what a pain), and the dragonborn Sorcerer Tiberius.

Anyway, severeral people have expressed to me that I should share my pattern with the world. Unfortunately, my patterns are mostly based from a book, Amiguru-ME! by Allison Hoffman (check her blog here). All the main components were from her book.

I am by no means, a pattern writer. I have to force myself to do it, but more often than not, I get into the zone and completely blow off any intention to write out patterns. There will be mistakes. There will be frogging, and there may be swearing. Don't say I didn't warn you. All of this was written during a bout of insomnia, and may not be accurate at all, so use your better judgement over my instructions. I may refine them at a later date, or not.

From the book, these are the parts I made outright, without any modifications: Basic top (pg. 43), Arms (pg. 48), Bare legs and underwear (pg 69), and Full skirt (pg. 74) till I had a total of 14 rounds.

Modified pieces are the long and narrow male head, in which I added a round of single crochets between rounds 20 and 21 for an extension of the muzzle (or whatever Dragonborn call it). I also sewed it to the torso in a different spot, about the 12th round from the beginning, to make the head horizontal, rather than vertical.

The other modified piece is the feet, in which I created 3 toes. I would bobble x4, then sl st the next st and repeat until I reached the side of the foot, and then continued toward the sole as instructed.

Other pieces I added were "ram's horns" from this group. I reversed the instructions to get a near-perfect mirrored horn, but I suppose doing it left-handed would work just as well (my left hand is derp) and would get a possibly better result.

Sash for chest/back (I would have the torso, legs, arms and "skirt" all assembled together before attempting to attach this). You may need to change things around, depending on your personal gauge. I tend to work rather tight, so adjustments may be necessary. Pin and drape and adjust the length of the sash from waist, around his neck/shoulders and back down, ensuring that the inside rows meet in the center. Value your judgement over my instructions, really.

  1. Chain 53 (foundation chain will give you something more substantial to hold on to while you DC in the next row) turn, YO and insert your hook into the 4th chainfrom your hook (50)
  2. DC 50, turn, ch 1(50)
  3. SC 10, ch 3 and dc in the same stitch as the ch 3, dc 25, sc till end of row, finish and leave LONG tail for sewing. 

Sew on to doll with row 3 facing out, toward arms, taking care not to twist the sash as you pin it down.

Sash for waist (again having everything assembled beforehand is immensely helpful in gauging the size/number of stitches you'll need)


  1. Chain 31 Insert hook into 2nd chain from hook and turn (30)
  2. SC in each st across (30) ch 1, turn
  3. Sc in each st across (30), finish and leave long tail for sewing.

Sash for skirt

Leave long tail for at beginning for sewing on later
  1. Ch 8, insert hook into 2nd chain from hook and turn (7)
  2. SC 7 across, ch 1, turn (7)
  3. Repeat row 2 until you have 24 rows of sc
  4. sc tog 1, sc 3, sc tog 1 (3)
  5. sl st1,  sc 1, sl st 1 (3), finish off, and weave in end.
Dragon Tail

1. SC 4 in MC
2. SC around (4)
3. sc inc 1, sc 3 (5)
4. sc around (5)
5. sc inc 1, sc 4 (6)
6. sc around (6)
7. sc inc 1, sc 5 (7)
8. sc around (7)
9. sc inc 1, sc 6 (8)
10. sc around (8)
11: sc inc 1, sc 7 (9)
12-20. sc around (9)
21. sc inc 1, sc 8 (10)
22. sc around (10)
23. sc inc 1, sc 9 (11)
24. sc around (11)
25. sc inc 1, sc 10 (12)
26-29. sc around (12), finish off after round 29 with sl st in next st, pull tail through.
Leave long tail for sewing to body.


Eyelids

Ch 6, sl st in 2nd ch from hk, sc in next ch, hdc in next ch, sc in next
ch, sl st in last ch, fasten off leaving 12 inches of yarn for sewing.



Add embellishments as you please (spines, spikes, what have you) if you'd like to make your Dragonborn really special. You can use tail pattern to create fantasy characters with the base instructions from the Amiguru-ME book (I hold NO rights to that book, but I did write the patterns on this post myself to supplement the patterns in the book)

I used a cat-eye like pair of safety eyes, spaced 12 stitches apart on the head, on the 12th round. Back of the horns should touch the 4th round, and the front should be on the 8th round, and lightly stuffed, and the large part of the curve should be facing out.

If you'd like to make your own Tiberius, I suggest the following colors from Hobby Lobby's I Love This Cotton! line.

For the Head, arms, legs and tail: Red (60)
For the Torso and "skirt": Deep Turquoise (101)
For the Sashes: Aqua (68)
For the Horns: [Tip:Buttercup(12), Banana (256), or Antique Gold (80)] and [Skin: Antique Cream (95)]


Questions, comments and/or concerns can be directed at my Twitter, which should now be in the sidebar.

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